A few musings and photos from Morocco....
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This photo captures a moment in Assilah, a small coastal town. This was after three months in the country and by then, I had nearly perfected the theatrical art of pouring mint tea - and striking a pose.
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Mint tea is a cornerstone of Moroccan culture and social interaction. Prepare to savor it abundantly, as it replaces the casual "grabbing a beer" with "sitting for tea." It is typically served with tons and tons of sugar, not just to sweeten the brew but also to foster warmth and togetherness among guests.
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Moroccan tea service is distinctive for its long pouring style, where the host gracefully pours the tea from a high teapot, creating a froth in the cup and a delight to the guest.
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I've always been amazed by life in the desert.
This vast expanse of sand dunes, with some reaching heights of up to 500 feet, has served as a natural barrier and a formidable challenge for travelers throughout history, including Berber nomads, merchants, and caravans crossing the Sahara Desert.
The nomadic tribes who have inhabited the area for centuries have adapted their way of life to the harsh conditions of Erg Chebbi, relying on its resources and navigating its shifting sands.
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Many creatives, myself included, are obsessively drawn to the desert landscape. It offers a beautiful palette for one's thoughts and ideas. Out of the vast nothing, one can imagine anything.
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It was no surprise to me that I would happen upon art in the Sahara, the greatest desert known to mankind.
Hannsjörg Voth is a German artist mainly known for his Land Art constructions in the Merzouga desert. He built different structures to connect the arid plain to the stars. The Stadt des Orion is an incredible masterpiece and an otherworldly spectacle. To get to this work, the drive into the vast desert is long and flat. One really does feel like a rover on Mars. And reaching this incredible structure (one out of three he built) feels like you have come upon the entrance to some otherworldly expanse.
It's easy to assume that Morocco is all desert and medinas, but it also has a wonderful coastline. Along the Atlantic shores, I found not only pristine beaches but also vibrant port cities, each with a unique personality and a tale to tell.
The coastal breeze carried the scent of freshly caught fish and the lively sounds of hawkers peddling their goods. These coastal towns, shaped by centuries of trade and encounters with diverse cultures, are living proof of Morocco's multifaceted identity.
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I found serenity in Chefchaouen. Blue is already my favorite color and I felt immediately at home in the country's "Blue Pearl". It is not a place to go with a list of "things to see in Chechaouen". Rather, the town is the thing to see or rather, to experience.
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True peace is early morning walks through the azure- walled and cobblestoned streets. The street cats gently purr at you as you walk up and down the highly and narrow lanes. The air is cold and crisp, and the first call to prayer colors the morning with intention and hope.
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Chefchaouen was founded in 1471 by Moulay Ali Ben Moussa Ben Rached El Alami, a descendant of the Prophet Muhammad. He established the town as a fortress to resist Portuguese invasions in northern Morocco.
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The blue color that covers Chefchaouen's buildings has become one of its defining features. Some people believe that early Jews in Chefchaouen introduced the practice of painting walls blue, in keeping with their religious and cultural practices. Some say Chefchaouen’s walls are in all shades of blue to represent the color of the Mediterranean Sea. Others say it is honor of the waterfall that supplies water to the town. You will hear many different reasons why the walls are blue if you ask around- an added mysticism to the enchanting town.
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While there are a lot of beautiful hotels throughout the country, riads in Morocco are enchanting architectural echoes of the past.
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These resplendent homes, adorned with intricate tile mosaics and latticed plasterwork, cradle lush, secret gardens at their hearts. Once havens for affluent families, these sanctuaries have endured the sands of time. While some languished in neglect, others found a renaissance in their restoration, now offering travelers a portal to Morocco's cultural tapestry, a living ode to a bygone era.
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I stayed in as many riads as I could, and also toured and explored many along the way. Each one is incredibly unique in design, history, and tale.
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The artisans in the vibrant medinas of Marrakech and Fez are captivating masters of their crafts, drawing you in with their skilled hands. Coming from the Western world, where such craftsmanship is often hidden, exploring these medinas is deeply inspiring.
While tales of aggressive haggling and persistent hawkers are common, it's essential to remember that these interactions often stem from cultural differences.
Moroccan merchant culture embraces bargaining as an energetic and engaging tradition, a dynamic dance of commerce that has endured for centuries. Being prepared to politely decline offers ("No, thank you" - "La Shokran") with a friendly yet firm demeanor is key to navigating this unique shopping experience.
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One morning at 3 a.m. in Marrakech, in the still of our small riad, I awoke with an unparalleled anticipation, knowing that I was about to embark on a bucket-list check off, a hot air balloon adventure.
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Our 18-year-old pilot (he told us his age after the ride was over), exuded calm, confidence, and control as he guided us through the initial experience in pre-dawn darkness.
As the burners came to life, the balloon gracefully ascended, and a surreal world unveiled itself beneath us. Marrakech, the "Red City," lay hidden, the sun peaked, and the Atlas Mountains provided a breathtaking backdrop.
In this captured moment, with the balloon neatly stowed away and my face bearing the marks of fatigue, there is an undeniable happiness and gratitude that transcends the boundaries of words.
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The beauty of Morocco, with its rich tapestry of culture and landscapes, has shown me that sometimes, the most profound experiences come at the end of a journey – when the adrenaline fades and the world stands still.
A reminder that life's most cherished memories are often etched in the lines of tired smiles.
INCLUSIVE TRAVELER TIPS
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I had this scarf wrapped for me by the scarf weaver in the medina and I think he did a beautiful job. However, women do not have to cover their hair in public. Morocco is a quite secular country. It is predominantly Muslim with its own customs. I recommend dressing modestly, especially in rural areas and religious sites.
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Learn Basic Phrases: Learn a few Arabic or Berber phrases to connect with locals. A bit of French wouldn't hurt either.
Bargain Wisely: Haggling is common in the souks. Be prepared to negotiate respectfully when shopping for souvenirs.
Stay Hydrated: Carry a water bottle to stay hydrated, especially in the hot months.
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Try Local Cuisine: Savor Moroccan dishes like tagine, couscous, pastries, and mint tea. Morocco had some of the best street food I have ever had in my life.
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Beware of Scams: Be cautious of overly friendly locals and unofficial guides. I felt safe as a traveler in most of the country but I kept my city-girl wits about me and recommend all travelers to do the same.
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Stay in a Riad: Consider traditional riad accommodations for an authentic experience.
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​Remember that Morocco is a country of contrasts and surprises, so embrace the adventure and immerse yourself in the local culture to make the most of your trip.