The Inclusive Traveler
Hello fellow inclusive travelers! I took a trip back home to Ghana and had a wonderfully nostalgic time. Here are a few photos and thoughts from my trip, from market walks in Makola market, to visiting ancestral villages- it was the trip of a life-time.
I remember going to market day with my mom as a kid. The overwhelming smell of salted fish, seller moving through the crowd with baskets on their heads, the heat, boisterous sellers yelling in Ga, and the quick, natural flow of pace everyone seemed to walk in.
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Market life is an important part of life in Ghana. Makola market in Accra is one of the most interesting and largest markets in West Africa. You really can find anything in there. Fresh produce, textiles, traditional crafts, clothing, electronics, spices, fish. With its lively ambiance, the market provides a glimpse into the energetic spirit of Accra, complete with enthusiastic vendors and bargaining opportunities.
Eight hours from Accra, in the Western Region and well off the beaten path, I found Nzulezu Village. This ancestral village is built entirely on stilts on the Lake Tadane. The lake is tranquil and Nzulezu people are resilient, despite limited resources due to it's rural location.
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The myth of the Nzulezu people is that the ancestors of the village were brought to their present place under the guide of a snail. The inhabitants of the village are said to have migrated from Walata, a city in the ancient Ghana Empire, the earliest of the Western Sudanese States.
My most nostalgic memory of my childhood in Ghana was getting a road-side coconut after school with my dad.
The lush coastal regions of Ghana, especially along the Gulf of Guinea, provide an ideal environment for coconut cultivation. Coconut trees are everywhere.
Procuring a coconut from a roadside vendor is a quintessential experience. Approaching a coconut vendor, you select a ripe coconut from their collection, and with a swift machete swing, they create a hole for a straw. After drinking the water, they cut the coconut in half for you to enjoy the meat. It is one of the simplest joys of life in Ghana.
Aburi Gardens in Akwapim Hills outside Accra. The grounds are small yet lovely and there are some interesting native and imported trees. This abandoned helicopter in the middle of the gardens is actually the first helicopter in Ghana.
There are many old slave castles and forts in Ghana. It was the first country on the African continent to gain independence from the West and the country exhibits many of these slave castles as a reminder of the turbulent past.
Cape Coast Castle, with its weathered walls, stands as a stark reminder of the transatlantic slave trade that once thrived here. The castle's somber dungeons and cramped chambers tell stories of human suffering and resilience. The energy in the chambers is hair-raising and bluntly painful.
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The infamous "Door of No Return" is a chilling portal through which countless enslaved people were forcibly shipped to the Americas.
Today, Cape Coast Castle stands as a museum, inviting visitors to confront a painful history and reflect on the enduring legacy of this dark chapter in human history.
I wanted to see some of the lesser-known slave forts on this trip. Fort Fredericksburg was built of stone transported by sea between 1681 and 1683 from Prussia and is one of two German forts built in Ghana. Around 300,000 Africans were transported through this fort.
Although more off the beaten path, it has a fascinating history connected to John Canoe- an Akan warrior and chief of the Ahanta people in 18th-century Ghana. He established a stronghold in the fort against the Dutch, engaging in prolonged wars with European traders. He is commemorated in the famously attended Junkanoo festivals in the Caribbean and around the African diaspora.
Ghana is not very much known for its beaches. This is because the rip currents in the Gulf of Guinea are incredibly strong and can be dangerous. Another hugely significant issue is the phenomenon of plastic waste in the sea and littering along the otherwise beautiful beaches.
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I did find some beautiful pockets of beach along the coast, like Keta and Axim.
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This photo is from Axim Beach Resort. You can see how the blue of the water perfectly meets the blue of the sky in the back drop of these lovely coconut trees. Although not safe to swim in, the ocean view was delightful.
INCLUSIVE TRAVELER TIPS
Ghana has diverse languages and ethnic groups (Ga, Fante, Twi, Ewe, to name a few). English is widely spoken, but not everyone understands it. Learning local phrases is appreciated.
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Yellow Fever certificate needed for travelers 9 months and older. Anti-malaria meds are essential.
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Using your left hand for tasks is disrespectful.
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Ghanaians are very friendly and very polite. Greetings are very important; always say hello, good morning, good afternoon, when entering a room.
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Police stops are frequent, often at night. Random vehicle searches may occur. Be prepared for potential bribes.
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Avoid tap water; boil, buy, or use a filter.
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Accra traffic is challenging; patience is key.
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Time is flexible in Ghana; allow extra minutes.
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In markets, negotiate prices; aim for half the original price. Ghana is known for it's textiles, crafts, bead work, and shea butter. Go with a trusted local for better deals.
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Enjoy the country's nightlife. Music and dance are big parts of life in Ghana.
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