Cartagena, colombia
Hola, fellow inclusive travelers! Here is a peek through my spur-of-the-moment trip to Cartagena, Colombia. From touch-down to salsa dancing, Cartagena wrapped me in a colorful spell and I can't wait to go back.
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A good friend of mine was solo traveling around Colombia and we were regularly in touch. On a cold and rainy Philly morning, I was perched on my kitchen counter over-caffeinated and antsy as she was sending me photos of her trip. Somehow mid-text, a feverish wanderlust took over me and before I knew it, a ticket confirmation was pinged to my email.
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Never mind that I had not once typed “Cartagena"into Google search. Warmer weather, beaches, and a bestie- what else did I need to know? I thought obliviously. I packed one carry-on full of warm-weather clothes and my beat-up Chromebook. I was justifying the spontaneity by telling myself I was going for a “cultural field study” and would be taking notes. In hindsight, I was so busy having fun and exploring the city, that Chromebook never saw the light of Cartagena day.
I arrived at a lovely Airbnb in Gestemani. My friend was not to arrive until later in the evening, so I had time to settle in and explore. I 100 percent recommend this place if you plan to visit the city. It had everything from a rooftop pool to 24 hour security.
I loved staying in Getsemani. It is known as the hip and artsy part of the city and it is incredibly vibrant. It was to me, the “heart” of Cartagena.
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My first stop was to get a coffee. After all, I am in Colombia where all my coffee bags back in the US claim to be from. With my delicious espresso in hand, I walked through paved little streets with beautiful walled murals, colorful rows of casitas, and flower-drenched balconies. The energy screamed just as loudly as the colors of the houses. Hawkers on the street, men calling out for my attention as I would stop at a corner, the colorful palenqueras selling fruits, the aromas from all the restaurants, the colorful flag strips strung in the little alleys, everything was extra. I felt truly alive, and at home.
Despite cautions of safety I had heard prior to coming, I felt very safe walking around alone. Colombia is infamous for its past with cartel violence and political unrest. However, many parts of the country, like Bogotá, Medellín, and Cartagena, have seen significant improvements in safety. Of course I was as cautious as I am in most cities, but felt no threat or danger- just welcoming smiles everywhere.
One of the most distinctive parts of Cartagena are all the murales. They are all over the city and are some of the best works of art I have ever seen. Each mural, carefully crafted by local artists, reflects the soul of Cartagena. These artists often draw inspiration from Cartagena's cultural heritage, depicting scenes from Afro-Caribbean folklore, historical figures, and vibrant street life.
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It also became a platform for social and political commentary. Many murals in Cartagena now address issues such as inequality, environmental conservation, and the preservation of cultural traditions. They are not just art, but also as powerful tools for advocacy and social change.
NEIGHBORHOODS
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Centro
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The Old City, Also known as The Walled City because it is enclosed by a walled fortress built in the 16th century. Plazas are spread throughout the town with live performers, artists, and street vendors selling all types of goodies. This part of town transported me back in time with the colonial architecture, colorful facades, and beautiful balconies adorned with blooming bougainvillea.
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Getsemani
but it was Getsemani that stole my heart – artsy and vibrant, it was the home to the city’s colonial-era artisans, many of whom were freed slaves. It is considered to be the birthplace of Cartagena’s vibrant culture. I enjoyed walking around the neighborhood every morning, looking at all the colorful murales. It is definitely the neighborhood I most preferred.
Boca Grande is a neighborhood of obstructive modern high rises facing the water. If you are interested in staying in a penthouse overlooking the sea, maybe this neighborhood is for you. It’s very Miami. I have no photos to show because I had no interest in venturing over there. This is the neighborhood right in front of the beach. Speaking of the beach…
I do not recommend you come to Cartagena specifically for the beach. The beach off Boca Grande is, to put it respectfully, not pleasant.
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If you want to go to a nice beach, there are beautiful islands all around Cartagena, some of them as quick as 40 minutes and some of them as far as 3 hours by boat. We did not have a lot of time on our itinerary, but we were determined to find that crystal Caribbean blue.
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After a few adventurous days and fun blurry nights (more on those blurry nights later) in the city, we decided to wake up early one morning and catch a boat to an island. We ended up staying a few nights on Mistika Island in Las Palmas. Although it was a bit bare bones, the water was amazing, the staff was friendly and helpful, and the wildlife was incredible. It was definitely lacking in certain amenities, showers limited to evening hours, sketchy wifi, no electricity during the day, and no ac., food options were also limited. But what was missing in amenities was more than made up for in nature’s beauty. It was certainly more off the beaten path than we imagined. If you are alright with giving up certain material luxuries for the experience of being one with nature, this place is a go-to. If not, I would check out the more amenity-equipped Hotel Isla Palma, the only other accommodation on this island.
If we had had more time, we would have also visited Isla Rosario or Tayrona National Park. Those are on the list for next time.
...About those blurry nights
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We headed back to Cartagena to spend our last days exploring the city more. By then, we had made some local friends. One thing about Colombians is they know how to have a good time! We were out into the night every night. Needless to say, my salsa skills were much improved by the time I left the country.
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Now, back in my everyday life, I am night ritual girly. Chamomile-cbd tea, book in hand, with my face moisturized like a glazed donut by 10 pm. That’s not to say I don’t know how to party- I’m just not a party girl.
I was not prepared for the absolute lit-fest that is Cartagena after 8pm. If you are into nightlife, this is the place for you. The party is everywhere, not just in the club. It is in the square, in the alleys, in the bars, in the market, in the restaurants. If you come to Cartagena, make sure you bring your pain reducers, your hydration packets, your eye masks- whatever you’re gonna need to keep up. Never have I met a people in my travels more ready to live for the night.
You could just as easily come to Cartagena, and have an amazing time not enjoying the nightlife- but the city really comes alive at night.
INCLUSIVE TRAVELER TIPS
Expect to feel sweaty and sticky the whole time you are there. Dress with color, flare, and accordingly.
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Tap water is not potable. It is the developing world and although features like AC are common in most stays and hotels, double-check that the infrastructure is to your comfortable standard.
Uber is the best way to get around
The Colombian peso can be a bit confusing but keep in mind that 100,000 pesos are about $30.
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Learn some Spanish.
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Keep your personal belongings light and on your body at all times. I love some variation of a fanny pack for keeping all my items.
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Lead with empathy when it comes to dealing with aggressive hagglers. Tourism is the only way they have to make money. Set your boundaries, but set those boundaries with love and kindness. Be prepared to politely say, “No, gracias” alot.
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Do take the time to appreciate the beautiful murals all throughout the city.
Google Gabriel Garcia Marquez. He is Colombia's most famous author and knowing who he is will really add a different layer of appreciation to your trip. I highly recommend reading 100 Years of Solitude.